Audio file
A toast to two saviors

Is this really Skala? My first impression of the ramshackle town, upon arriving after a long day’s drive over secondary roads from Lviv, does little to settle the queasiness I’ve been feeling for several days now. Having left my usual frame of reference, New York City in 1999, I’m still finding my bearings in this strange Ukrainian dreamland I’d last glimpsed more than half a century before—a place where the boundaries between past and present have blurred...


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